Get your brewing underway with the ultimate in ezi start-up packages for making great pub style beer (or cider). Mix and ferment your brew in one simple step using just the pressure keg.
This system is ideal if you have very little space or you live on a boat. You just need the one container with which you brew your beer/cider in, as well as serve it.
There's no need to bottle and age your beer for several weeks or months. Pressure barrel beer/cider is drinkable as early as three weeks from starting.
- 10L Pressure barrel with handle and tap
- 2" cap with grommet and airlock
- 2" cap with CO2 pin pressure valve
- Packet (10) CO2 Cylinders (to keep your beer gassed as the barrel empties)
- CO2 cartridge holder
- Stick on liquid crystal thermometer
- 50gm Cleaner/Steriliser
- Instruction sheet on how to brew Using the Mini Micro-Brewery
HERE'S HOW IT WORKS ...
Everything takes place in the pressure barrel so firstly it will need thorough cleaning and sterilising. The kit comes with a very good sterilising powder so just follow the directions on the pottle to prepare the barrel.
The majority of homebrewing kits you can buy are designed to make 23L (40 pints), some being full malt kits and some where you need to add brewing sugar.
Both types of kits can be used:
The kits that come in a can or sachet that need added sugar are easy to use as you just use the extract only to brew your 10L of beer/cider. This means there's no need to bother with the extra sugar. You will still use the full sachet of yeast though which will guarantee a full fermentation. This then works like a full malt kit but with even more flavour.
The full malt kits which come as two cans are the ideal to use and is what we recommend. As we're only making a half measure 10L (17 pints) with each batch you can put one of the cans aside for your next brew.
You will however need to purchase another yeast sachet for the second batch as it's wise to use the full sachet in each batch rather than trying to halve it.
There are three options to purchase:
Option A - Includes all the equipment you'll need to get underway. You can then choose a beer or cider kit from our range or from another outlet.
Option B - Comes with a Woodforde's Wherry full malt, two can ingredient kit, probably the most popular home brew kit sold in the UK. Described as ... "Fresh and zesty with crisp floral flavours. A background of sweet malt and a hoppy ‘grapefruit’ bitter finish characterises this champion bitter." ABV: 4.5% (This kit will produce two batches and includes a second yeast)
Option C - Comes with a St Peter's Indian Pale Ale full malt, two can ingredient kit and yeast sachet. "Traditionally highly hopped and robust to survive the long voyage to the Indian sub-continent. The result is a full bodied Pale Ale with a zesty character." ABV: 5.5% (This kit will produce two batches and includes a second yeast)
HERE'S HOW IT'S DONE ...
Sit the beer kit (can or pouch) in hot water for approx 10-15min to soften the extract and make it easier to pour. While this is happening prepare a cup (approx 250ml) of water (preferably boiled then cooled) at around 22 - 25C and sprinkle the yeast sachet in and stir. Leave for 15 minutes for the yeast to hydrate.
Before starting be sure the barrel and all equipment is sterilised.
Add about 1-1.5L of boiling water to the barrel then pour the extract in, screw on the cap with the grommet and airlock fitted and shake vigourously to dissolve. Top the barrel with cold/warm water to the 10L mark at approx 18-24C. Shake the barrel again to mix thoroughly and also to aerate the brew.
Add the cup of yeast mixture, rinse out the airlock and fit back into the cap. Half fill the airlock with pre boiled and cooled water. Now put the barrel somewhere convenient to ferment at between 18-24C.
If you can't maintain this temperature throughout fermentation and it goes below about 15C it will stop working and will need warming up again to restart. Using a heatpad will guarantee the correct temperature required.
After approx three-four days, once activity has died down a bit, you need to change caps, so gently unscrew the airlock cap. Be sure you sterilise the CO2 pressure valve cap first then smear a little Vaseline, cooking oil or food grade lubricant around the white seal before hand tightening it onto the barrel.
Over the remaining time of fermentation the pressure will build up in the barrel (any excess will be released through the valve). Do not remove the cap as any pressure buildup will be lost.
After a few more days you can monitor progress by checking the specific gravity by filling the hydrometer storage tube straight from the barrel tap. Check on the beer/cider instructions as to what the specific gravity should be. (NOTE: As we're only making half batches the specific gravity may vary from what it says in the instructions)
Once it has finished it's simply a case of putting the barrel somewhere cool for 7-10 days to let it clear and condition. Of course tasting samples can always be taken off whenever the urge takes you ...
There is no set time when you can start drinking. It comes down to personal taste and how patient you are. Remember though, home brew beer/cider will continue to improve with age, so the longer you can leave it the better it will be. ENJOY!
As the beer/cider is consumed the pressure in the barrel will drop off causing your brew to stop pouring. At this stage you'll need to inject some more CO2 into the barrel. This is done by placing one of the CO2 cylinders into the black holder and screwing it onto the Pressure valve. At a point the cylinder is pierced and the gas released into the barrel to bring it back up to pressure so you can carry on drinking!
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